As soon as we began marching back and forth along the same street where we hoped to bump into Dar Roumana, we eventually followed the lead of a young boy, who kindly led us to the riad's hidden door on a quiet side street. Huddling to keep warm under our coats in the brisk air, we waited a minute before we were greeted with a friendly smile by Sebastian, one of the riad’s owners.
From the plush couches in the salon, we had a prime view of the riad’s beautifully-restored zellij and candled-flanked fountain in the center room. Enjoying the warmth let off by the fireplace nearby, we relaxed before dinner as the birthday boy sipped a pomegranate-flavored “Fassi navel”, Dar Roumana’s signature drink.
Once we sat down to dinner, along with two other couples, we took Sebastian’s recommendation for a tasty cabernet sauvignon from nearby Meknes. All of Dar Roumana’s food is prepared by Jennifer, Sebastian’s wife and the riad’s other owner, who happens to be trained as a Cordon Bleu chef. Dinner began with a simple, but rich Jerusalem artichoke and spinach soup – perfect comfort food for the chilly night – followed by tender chicken stewed with sherry and garlic, served alongside fresh broccoli (a first in Morocco!) and good old mashed potatoes.
Resting our full bellies, we sat for awhile and chatted with Jennifer, an ever gracious host. Back before the riad craze began and Fes started to become home to a cluster of ex-pats, Jennifer purchased Dar Roumana with the intent of restoring it as a guesthouse. Over the next couple of years, she worked patiently to bring the riad to life, installing everything from basic electricity and a roof to custom-designing certain details, like the gorgeous fireplace in the salon. Since it’s opening a few years back, Dar Roumana has been host to hundreds of guests and I can certainly see why.
Once we had enough stamina to delve into dessert, Andrew and I turned our attention back to the table, and finished off our meal with elegant homemade tiramisu and strong coffee. Before heading home, though, we followed Sebastian and Jennifer’s recommendation and walked up the riad’s staircase, eyeing the cozy library and secretly wishing we were staying put for the evening.
As we stood on the rooftop and gazed out over the lights of the medina, I turned towards the magnificent Merenid Tombs, perched high on the hill, and was reminded how lucky I am to live in this medieval wonder of a city.
